Scooter Dynasty offers high performance parts for power buggies, go karts, and ATVs along side high performance parts for scooters using mainly the Honda Clone engines that are GY6 cc and cc engines.
Variators, cylinder kits, CDIs, roller weights from Dr. Pulley and MRP as well as exhaust for cc go karts. Upgrades are the easiest way to get a new ride. Better performance means more fun times and a good way to keep the machine fit with the latest parts. All rights reserved. All trademarks on the site are the property of their respective owners.
This can be a big one! Recalibrating your CVT will not increase the actual power output, but it can be one of the best bang for the buck modifications that you can buy. Most mod kits for gas scooters will also come with new parts for the CVT. A properly calibrated CVT can significantly increase the overall performance.
The front driver pulley variator can be recalibrated with different roller weights to vary to overall RPM of the engine under driving conditions. Lighter roller weights will increase overall engine RPM. Heavier roller weights decrease engine RPM.
250cc, 4 Stroke, (172MM), CF250, CH250, GY6-250, Liquid-Cooled
Roller weights can be found for the cc in the range of probably 15 - 26 grams or so. Somewhere around 15 grams would probably be a good place to start to experiment for heavier go karts. Lighter scooters may want to have a little heavier roller weights.
Weigh your stock weights using a precision scale and select new rollers weights either lighter or heavier - depending how you want to change your engine RPM range. In addition to the front driver pulley, the rear driver pulley can also be recalibrated with different clutch shoe springs to vary clutch engagement RPM, and also the main driven compression spring can be changed to a stiffer spring which also effectively boosts engine RPM under driving conditions.
There is a lot to be said about CVT tuning, but to simplify many people can probably benefit from slightly lighter roller weights in the front driver pulley and also a stiffer torque compression spring in the rear driven pulley. These changes will effectively slow down the upshift of the CVT and allow the engine to rev up higher and have better torque under driving conditions.
Don't go too far though. Too high an RPM and you might be way out of your powerband. Also, too high of an RPM can be annoying while cruising with low engine loads. It can feel like driving your 5-speed car in 3rd gear on the freeway. The buzzing of the RPM at all times can be annoying to some people. Kevlar Belt - Depending on whether your cc engine is vertical or horizontal, you will need to upgrade your belt to a Kevlar belt to accomodate the extra torque from the rollers weights and torque spring.
Click here for belt size specifications.In outside dimensions, it is nearly identical. You can see in the picture above that, basically, the only difference is that the CRFF original carburetor is not bored out as large as the XRR carburetor 26mm vs 30mm.
As the XRR carb has a larger bore, on a stock bike it will give up a noticeable amount of throttle response at low RPM, but allows for more peak power and far less of a drop-off in power at high RPM. This means that it is only an upgrade for some people as other people do not rev their CRFF out and would not experience much benefit. It should also be noted that larger jets will be required with the XRR carburetor compared to the CRFF carburetor, as the larger bore reduces the amount of vacuum felt by the main jet.
Skip to content. The original carburetor has an angled fuel inlet to clear the frame on the CRFF. Some people install a brass bend and braze or epoxy it into place.
C Loosen all of the motor mounts, have a buddy force the entire engine in a direction which gives the fuel line more clearance, and have your buddy hold it there while you tighten all the motor mounts again.
For this, you can use a dremel to match the intake manifold to the larger carburetor. The metering needle is different. Pros of the XRR carb swap: Performance benefit for modified engines On the outside, it looks just like the original carburetor.
Perfect for that sleeper build. Share this: Twitter Facebook. Like this: Like Loading Post to Cancel.Ive heard people getting mods for cg's but i carnt find them anywere.
You see now ive sold me mito because of its awful relyability im wondering what to get b4 or when ive passed me test. I thought it would be funny to mod up a honda cg so im wondering does anyone know were to get performance parts for them?
Don't be silly. There's nothing anywhere. I think patternparts sell a high flow air filter but I wouldn't fuck around with running the engine too rich. Seriously, the motor has nothing to give.
Need more power? There's plenty more in those engines. Just need to know what to change and their limitations. Seriously though, my bike felt better after a proper garage service.
Sometimes a new plug, new oil, a clean chain can make that difference. Cgs are a good ideal for commuting or learning on, they are not a fast bike. I did get it up to about 70 once though!!!! I'd even consider another one for the winter months!!. Hmmm, had a picture of a catapult somewhere, one of these may come in handy too Whip off the airbox, slap n a pod filter, stick in a bigger mainjet and bang a spike up the exhaust.
From another forum: Quote: I am soon to be finishing a porting job on a CG head. I will try and post some pics when I borrow a camera from work. CG heads tend to respond massively from porting work. I've also ground the end of the valve guide smooth, re-angled the inlet port by raising the roof and the floor with epoxy a little to give it a larger radius where it curves down into the engine.
I've opened up where the exhaust port exits as it goes from a small and quite choked up port into quite large exhaust. I've also raised the top of the port slightly around where the valve guide enters. I've modified the valves slightly as on the back of the valve close to where it contacts with the valve seat there is a ridge which I ground smooth and also where the valve stem meets the head there is a pronounced step which I smoothed off.
Cylinder head work boosts performance all-round! My friend old modified CG used to go up an hill in 5th gear but the clutch had problems coping with the extra power and slipped a lot!
A WORD OF WARNING CG valves being very small tend to get very hot under hard use, the valve seats also pit easily because of this not allowing the valve to seal well which means that the valves get hotter due to blow-by and not so good heat dissapation hence many CGs drop their exhaust valves so stainless exhaust valves are highly recommended!
I have just read a write up of the new XR and stone me Jehovah! The standard pipe is to large really. Anybody got any opinions on Jap vs Brazilian versions and why? Pumper carb vs earlier or other types? The pumper carb works really well in my opinion as it allows you to set up as an optimal slightly lean but squirts a little bit of fuel when the throttle is twisted in anger for good pick-up.
Other people I know don't rate them. Dean - keep us updated on cam mods. Your original modded cam may not have worked because the ports may not have been able to flow enough.
Increasing lift on the cam would probably make not much difference at all as after a certain amount of lift valves will not be able to flow any more gas it is all in proportion to the size of the valve throat and the exhaust throat is not very big at all I think increasing the duration is the way to go.This engine has a bore size of 72mm and a stroke of 60mm. The transmission is a CVT automatic transmission. You will find this popular engine in many scooters, ATVs, go karts, buggies and mopeds.
This is the standard replacement belt for the CFmoto MM liquid cooled engine. This also fits the CFmoto cc 32mm carb.
This filter delivers high air flow and clamps on to your carburetor to ensure a tight clearance fit. Unlike some scoots this does not have a suspension cross member which would interfere with the filter installation. This will fit just about any scooter, quad, moped, buggy, ATV, dirt bike, etc.
This is a very high quality Dual Layer 48mm, small profile Performance Air Filter for high air flow that clamps on to your carburetor to ensure a tight clearance fit. This has a quality urethane flange and clamp. This is the smaller Measures approx. Mechanics Note: The brake switch on a scooter is not just to illuminate the brake light; it is also a safety switch to start the engine.
If nothing happens when you push the start button, think about getting one or both of these. Remember, you have two brake switches.2017 Yamaha R6 Mods!! Total Cost?
Rear Brake Stop Switch and Spring for foot activated rear brake on many scooters and motorcycles. This 35w bulb is brighter and can often replace the 18w bulb. We also stock the 18w headlight if you prefer, as well. Mechanics Note: If the engine is sluggish or won't allow you to run her up much past half on the throttle, and you are having difficulty getting her to full speed, look in the carburetor with the intake boot off, and see if the diaphragm is going all the way up.
If it fails to do so, it is torn or leaking and you have found your problem. These are pretty easy to replace and a must if you want to upgrade your engine's performance with performance parts or upgrades.
Mechanics Note : If you increase the size of your stock carb jet you will want to improve your air flow both in and out of the engine. For smaller upgrades replace the stock air filter with a Performance Air Filter for this engine.About 6 months ago I decided to buy a cheap Chinese dual sport motorcycle. While I was researching the trip I came across some videos of dual sport riders, riding and camping in Moab UT, and on the mountain tops of the Colorado Rockies!
As soon as I seen the scenery and the beautiful roads and trails these guys were riding I decided I wanted to add those stops to my trip! Riding a cruiser like a Honda Shadow, or a Yamaha bolt was no longer an option for this trip.
Pretty expensive to see if I still enjoy riding off road. I was skeptical, but for that price I was more than curious. My first impressions of the bike were good.
It was delivered to me within 14 days. It arrives in a box and was delivered to my door in a truck. Outside of a little dust from shipping, the bike arrived in perfect condition.
Easy Peasy! Unboxed the bike, screwed in the mirrors, put the keys in the ignition and the bike roared to life. This is how it was delivered. The delivery guy laughed and said he never delivered a motorcycle in a box before.
It came well packaged and in one piece. During the first miles the bike had a slight pop on deceleration.
Nothing major, but it was a bit annoying. At the mile break in period I did the manufacturer suggested valve adjustment and the pop still persisted. Made a few carb adjustments, and got the pop under control. This was the first new bike I ever had to break in. The bike just feels weird. Every day after the mile initial break in period the bike seemed to run a little smoother, and little better with each ride. Not that it originally rode badly, it just rode like a new bike getting broken in I guess.
It feels strange! The day I received it. By the mile mark, it ran smoothly and I was no longer concerned about opening it up on the highway, or revving it to high. The engine sounded and ran great. After driving a Honda Shadow with cobra straight pipes, it was nice having a quiet bike. Now at the mile mark, the exhaust is a bit louder, still quiet but with a nice mellow tone. Technically the bike is a cc engine. At only cc the bike climbs hills and gets you where you need to go.
It is air cooled though, and the engine tends to overheat on longer trips if you stay on the main highways. The bike is pretty much wide open around 65mph, and will start to cut out when it over heats. Usually after about an hour to an hour and a half of wide open highway driving. On top of that, anyone who reads this blog knows I love riding country back roads. The scenery and the ride is far superior to boring main road highway driving!
In the city the bike is an absolute riot! It gets you through tight traffic no problem.I have reworked this kit several times in the Nov 15 to perform ever better. Added a shorter manifold and custom made cable for Heist which should work on all the CCW bikes, so throttle cables are custom made pre order. The air intake also has been modified to do a little more. Opens your fuel and air flow from stock with larger manifold that feeds a Flat Slide OKO carb with air adjustment as well as Idle with a Power Jet for huge top end.
The air intake does well with a 90 degree intake boot with velocity Stack Feed.
A cone filter is also included for extra tuning if needed. A cable change is needed and one is included. There are two versions of what you might need depending on your throttle body. A radical approach for some with several ways to tune for air intake to jets. Both pilot and main jets can be changed easily with Kehien jets. A throttle cable change is needed when install on a stock throttle body on a Cleveland Cyclewerks bike. You will be contacted for jetting and cable needed.
Best Dual Sport Bikes specializes in hopping up and modifying dual sport equipment to have a little bit more anger in their DNA and therefore a bit more dirt influenced.
Their goal with the Honda CRFL was to work on the ergonomics, the suspension and the power and a shaker about the tonnage. BDSB was initially just as concerned with the power as they were the weight. This is because acceleration is based on a power to weight ratio. Remember, many of the engine mods remove the street legality of the machine, so check with your local area on the proper rules. Their first mod came in bolting on an FMF Q exhaust system.
There was a double win here as the Q4 muffler and Megabomb head pipe add almost 4 hp, but it saved over 8 lbs over the stocker. This was mainly to save an extra 5 lbs of weight. It is weight that is located up high on the bike, so you would feel it when tossing the bike around. The new battery is also a amp unit, compared to the stock 7-amp unit. It was pretty lean at all throttle openings.
The addition of fuel would change everything around on this bike as far as acceleration went. With the additional fuel available it made it possible to open up the very restrictive air box a bit and also remove the back fire screen from the inside of the paper air filter element.
These three things made an additional 6 hp over stock, taking the original power of 18 hp up to 24 hp. As you can see though, from the dyno chart, there is quite a bit more power, right from the start and it just keeps on making the extra power until redline. To take advantage of all this power and to make the bike more suited to off road, BDSB also provides you with a 13 tooth front sprocket instead of the stock The gearing still runs down the highway at a respectable 80 mph and cruises nicely at 60mph.
BDSB has put together this kit as their Stage 1 power kit. It also contains the fuel programmer, 13 tooth countershaft sprocket and instructions on how to modify your airbox and filter.
Next on the list was fixing some ergonomics. The stock handlebars are mild steel and bend in the first tip over. Overall, this set up is higher and lets you get further forward on the bike. It also just feels much more natural. The stock seat is stiff, uncomfortable and also has a slippery downward slope.
Now, you can sit further back, plop down in comfort and stay where you want to sit. Of course the stock tires were fine for street use, anemic as dirt worthy rubber. Ever ride a mountain bike with light tires vs. Lastly and very importantly, is the fixing of the suspension.
Stock the rear is painfully soft and bottoms on a cigarette butt. The fork is a little better but offer no adjustments what so ever. This larger body is necessary since there is no remote reservoir and carrying more oil and nitrogen allow for better valving, heat control and damping. The new shock also has rebound damping control, and adjustable preload. The fork received Gold valves and stiffer springs. The bottom line?
This bike is gigantically better than the stocker. It actually has enough bottom power to trail ride and conquer some good-sized hills. Same goes for the suspension, now it has the meat to take on a good sized, and consecutive hits without wallowing, bottoming and launching off the trail. We loved the bars, give top mark to the saddle nice on the caboose and actually look forward to going off-road exploring on the Honda CRFL.
Down the road look for BDSB updated and refined L featuring a new cam profile, foam air filter and some surprising weight savings!!!